Category Archives: How to

Upcoming Women’s Cycling and Multisport Events at Gear West Bike

Just a reminder of the two upcoming Women’s Tube/Tire Change Clinics at Gear West Bike.  RSVP for the Clinics to hannah@gearwestbike.com so we can make sure we have space for all participants.  These are the last two clinics until August so join us for one if you want to learn to change a tube in time for early season riding!

- Thursday 5/10 at 6pm at Gear West Bike & Triathlon, co-sponsored by YWCA Triathlon (but you don’t need to be participating in that race to join us.)
- Saturday 5/12 at 9am at Gear West Bike & Triathlon, co-sponsored by Minneapolis Luna Chix

- Women’s Ride Saturday at 10am, leaving from Gear West Bike & Triathlon, lead by Minneapolis Luna Chix.

Workout Favorites: Cycling

February marks the end of relaxed training for many of us. Race season is right around the corner. So, what boosts  cycling fitness more than anything? Personally, we love doing 30, 30′s. What is this you ask? Well, after a 10 minute warm-up on your cycling trainer of choice, do a 30 second max effort followed by a 30 second break. Pace yourself however as you have 30 reps of this workout. If you happen to be training with power, try to finish your 30 second intervals within 45 watts of your starting effort. Don’t push hard and blow up half way through this workout. Trust us, 30 second intervals will add up as you get towards the end. Cool down with a 10 minute light spin after you are done. Good luck!

Basic Mechanics Class this Saturday @ 8:30am

 

Spring riding is here and now is the time to learn how to address minor mechanical issues on the fly so that you can maximize your time riding outside. Whether you have just picked up a new bike from us or have an “old trusty” from years back, this class will help you learn how to tackle basic mechanical issues.  Our mechanics will be covering tube changes, shifting adjustments, safety checks, and anything else you may have questions about. Here are the details.

Where: Gear West Bike and Triathlon

When: 8:30 – 9:45am THIS Saturday!

Cost: $ 20

Don’t miss your chance to attend this class. You can register online via Gearwestbike.com

If you cannot attend this weekend, don’t worry. We will also be holding classes on Saturday May 21st and Saturday June 18th.

Your Checklist for a Worry Free Spring Ride

Finally, we have some nicer weather coming this way over the weekend and through next week. With that said, many of you will probably be itching to get out on the roads soon. Here is a checklist to ensure that your first ride is worry free and mechanically sound.

Correct Tire Pressure?

Every set of tires has the recommended tire pressure range stamped or printed on the side wall. If you are a smaller or lighter weight rider, it is recommended that you stay in the lower recommended range for tire pressure. If you are slightly heavier, you will want to ride the tires on the upper end of that recommended range. To ensure that your tires are properly inflated, use a pump that displays the tire pressure (psi) clearly. If you don’t have a pump, stop in and check out some of the easy-to-use and super reliable options that we have in-stock from Bontrager and Blackburn

Drivetrain Lubed?

After a couple of months on the trainer or in storage, your chain may need to be cleaned and lubed before you head outside. Some good indicators of this may be squeaky gears, a dry chain, or an extremely dirty drivetrain. The best way to address these problems is to use citrus solvent to remove dirt and grime from the drivetrain components. Then, use a lube that is appropriate for the riding conditions. For chain lube, we would recommend White Lightning Clean Ride or some of the other light lubes in the shop.  Apply a thin-film along the entire chain and then shift through all the gears to spread the lube evenly throughout the entire drivetrain.

Tires Ready to Roll?

After a good season of riding last year or a little storage time, you may be due for a new set of tires. A couple of indicators of this would be cracks along the sidewall (commonly referred to as dry rot), slashes or bubbles in the tire, or flat spots. We have tires to match all types of riding needs and styles, so stop in and reduce your risk of getting a flat on your first ride.

Correctly Adjusted Skewers and Headset

Before going out the door, take a couple of seconds and ensure that your bike is safe and ready to ride. Open and close both the front and rear skewers, ensuring that they are properly tightened to hold the wheels in place as you are rolling down the road. They do not need to be torqued, but they should offer resistance as you are closing them. Additionally, make sure that the bolts holding your seat post and handlebars are securely tightened. Both of these steps only take a few seconds and will save you any worries as you are blazing down that first hill in the sun!

Any other mechanical needs? Please stop in and allow our mechanics to inspect your bike. As the spring weather becomes more consistent, our mechanics will be swamped with tune-ups. Save yourself the wait now and come in with you bike for maintenance and a full inspection. Our full tune-ups start at $60. Read more about our repair services at Gear West Bike.

Questions – Please call us at (952) 473-0093 to speak with a mechanic.

Four New Books to Jump Start the New Year

Now that the holiday rush is over and it is the start of a new year, we wish you all the best from the Gear West Bike and Triathlon staff. Let this be the time to reflect, set new goals, and prepare to have a successful and prosperous year in all of your pursuits. As triathlon, cycling, and running event registrations begin to open, allow us to help you move towards and achieve your multisport goals. Whether you want to break into triathlon or road cycling this year, reach a new personal record, or just enjoy Minnesota’s vast variety of trails, come see what we have to offer and recommend.

Appropriately timed to address all of those new year’s resolutions, we recently received a shipment of newly published books from Velo Press. Below, I have highlighted some of our new arrivals which may align perfectly with your goals.

  1. Balancing your busy life with your triathlon ambitionsThe Time Crunched Triathlete, written by Chris Carmichael and Jim Rutberg, addresses an issue we all deal with, balancing life with training. This book delivers a new approach that shows how to build fitness in all three sports, develop the speed and endurance needed to be competitive, and reach a new level of fitness in only eight hours per week. This book comes complete with training plans, nutritional guidelines, and case studies, making it a must read for busy professionals, parents, or time crunched triathletes!
  2. Learning to run without pain Natural Running is not just another book addressing the growing topic of barefoot running for better health. Danny Abshire and Brian Metzler, longtime running form and injury experts, co-authored this book to help teach natural running technique, think about injuries as symptoms of poor running form, and arm you with an 8 week transition plan of strength and form drills to bring your running to an entirely new injury free level. This book doesn’t blindly promote barefoot running, but rather breaks down the evolution of running techniques that have been distorted by modern running shoes. This book is worth reading if you need your feet, knees, and legs to feel better in 2011 to maintain health!
  3. Maintain a healthy weight to maximize multisport performance – Matt Fitzgerald, the author of Racing Weight, has written a quick-start guide that is a great companion to this best-selling book. It provides high intensity workouts and strength training along with meal recommendations, menus, and sport specific plans that will help you reach and maintain your goal weight for racing this year. Low and high volume plans will also guide you through each part of the season whether you’re a cyclist, triathlete or runner. Don’t take a guess this year and impede top performances, use this as a guide to slim down and build the right ratio of lean muscle mass for this year’s triathlon season.
  4. Race at an entirely new level – If you have been racing for multiple years, you may be looking for new training techniques that will spice up this season. Your Best Triathlon is aimed at veteran triathletes in pursuit of that breakout performance. This book will deliver training plans for all distances, arming each reader with a kit of proven workouts, isolating and developing each of the three disciplines of triathlon. If you’re a time crunched athlete, don’t worry. Each plan comes with tips on how to modify and manage training while improving performance.

How to Reach PR’s You Never Thought Possible Regardless of Age

As a new season approaches us, many people have expectations or goals for next season. Some of these may be elusive goals that have carried over for multiple years. For others, more race experience and a successful  season has brought on a new set of lofty goals. Whatever the story, we have found the attached article from Coach Troy Jacobson jam-packed with great suggestions that can help athletes at any level. You may recognize Coach Troy because he is the Official coach of Ironman, head tri coach for Life Time Fitness, and the creator of Spinervals Cycling DVDs.

Unlike many may assume, he did not come from an endurance background, but rather a contact sport background where short sprints were the only type of running. After hanging up football and wrestling during college, Troy found triathlon and distance running and excelled quickly. He has competed at all levels, including the professional field, placing as high as 20th in Kona while competing in 1998. Since reaching the top of his potential, he has focused on coaching, family and other aspects of life. Now, he is back racing as a master and reaching goals that eluded him at the top of his game! Read what Coach Troy has to say after finally running a sub-3 hour marathon during IM AZ.

http://www.coachtroy.com/public/605.cfm

Cold Weather Layering 101

Today, while cycling towards the shop at 7am with Corey, we had a good laugh because the brisk temperatures were actually bearable for riding. Matter of fact, we were actually sweating prior to stopping at the shop around 8 to pick up the rest of the crew (huge mistake as chills soon followed).

With clear skies and low winds this weekend, it is another perfect opportunity to cycle outside if you plan your layers right. At this time of the year, with temperatures between 20 – 50 degrees, layers are the key to enjoyment. If you want to lengthen your cycling season, or even take a few trail rides once it snows, here is what we suggest for warmth and adjustability in varying conditions. As a disclaimer, you do not have to break the bank just to lengthen your cycling season. For instance, I combine base layers and windproof outer layers from my cycling, xc skiing, and running collection. Many of the cycling clothes discussed below can work for a variety of outdoor activities.

For starters, thermal base layers, or even a next to skin wind blocker does wonders in cold weather. Craft makes amazing base layers for all conditions (extreme heat through extreme cold) that pull moisture away from the skin keeping your dry. With that said, moisture management is the key to retaining heat. Once you are damp or sweaty, it only takes a turn into a cold headwind to bring about the chills. For cold morning rides or temperatures below 40 degrees, try Craft’s Pro Warm top and pant, combining their warmest fabric with ventilation areas in the warmest regions. Additionally, Sugoi’s MidZero Boxer keeps out the nastiest chill and is lined with soft fleece to keep you toasty!

After a base layer or wind blocking brief, the legs are typically good with a windproof tight or bib. We personally recommend the bibs for cold weather riding because they will stay in place without adjustment for the entire ride. With a full length tight, the fabric is constantly being pulled down by your ankle and lower leg, making the bib clutch. We have great options from Gore such as the Contest and Xenon bibs priced from $ 149 – $250. Additionally, great options exist from Pearl Izumi, Craft, and Sugoi. If you choose a tight that does not have a pad, you can choose to pull your summer cycling bibs or shorts over the top of the tights for padding. Personally, I always wear a bib over the top of my windproof tights and experience very little restriction.

Keeping your core warm really generates full body warmth. After a thermal base layer, there are a number of different options for the second layer. You can go with a long sleeve jersey, arm warmers and a short sleeve jersey, or just a nice soft shell. However, wearing only a soft shell cuts down on adjustability once you start to ride. We have plenty of options for the second layer. Bontrager’s long sleeve jersey, Pearl Izumi or Gore arm warmers, and plenty of short sleeve jerseys can be found for under $ 60.

Next, a soft shell jacket or a thermal and windproof vest can be added for the final touch up top. There are plenty of adjustable options from Gore, Craft, and Sugoi that provide excellent protection from wind and water. Even if it contains very little insulation, a wind and waterproof outer shell will keep you warm in the coldest weather. Gore’s Phantom Jacket boasts top of the line Gore Windstopper fabric throughout the front and the sleeves are detachable if it warms up during your ride. This versatile piece that transforms from a soft-shell jacket to windproof jersey can be found in store for $ 169.99. The Active Convert Jacket from Craft also provides wind and water protection with zip off sleeves for versatility. This has less insulation than the Gore jacket, but serves as a vest and jacket for $ 100. This has been my choice piece for years of riding, xc skiing, and running. One of the most exciting and innovative pieces this year is Sugoi’s Versa Jacket. Like Craft’s option, it serves as a vest and jacket, but the arms are attached by magnets instead of zippers. The magnets stay in place and are strong enough to offer maximum wind and water protection, but provide easier adjustability from jacket to vest on the go. This jacket can be found in a couple of colors within the men’s and women’s section of the store for $ 120.

 Lastly, the hands, toes, and head can’t be forgotten. Frozen feet or dysfunctional shift fingers always put a damper on great cold weather rides. Wearing any mid length merino wool sock generates heat and pulls moisture away from your skin. A shoe cover must also be worn to maintain this warmth and block wind. We have plenty of options from Pearl and Gore for insulated toe covers. Merino wool socks from Swiftwick and Smartwool are our personal favorites. A windproof hat and/or balaclava will also provide full body warmth, retaining most of your body heat. Craft, Pearl Izumi, and Gore all have great options for headwear. We have gloves for all temperature ranges. Gore’s Radiator or Tool gloves and Sugoi’s Firewall glove will keep you warm under the harshest conditions. Pearl’s Cyclone or some of the lighter wind stopping gloves from Sugoi or Gore will also do the trick.

Here are some of our favorites for cold-weather riding:

Jared – 4” and 7” merino socks from Swiftwick and Ozone’s Thermogel Forte. The Thermogel Forte jump starts the legs during those cold weather rides, increasing blood flow and circulation to the areas where the gel has been applied.

 Corey – Also keeps his toes warm with Swiftwick’s merino wool socks. The Gore Balaclava is also at the top of the list, providing excellent wind protection and warmth. Unlike some balaclavas, Gore’s is designed in a way that allows unrestricted breathing and a non-suffocating feel during exercise. I can attest that Corey still looks like a bank robber in it however.

 

Kevin – Proper layering is clutch, but his trick to staying warm is using Grabber’s foot and hand warmers. These things stay toasty for 5-6 hrs. If you don’t have the stamina of a Himalayan Sherpa or maybe DKT (pretty close match), you can store them in an oxygen starved plastic bag for another ride. Without oxygen, you can bank time on these warmers and maybe get 2-3 rides out of them.  

 

Nigel – Although merino socks and shoe covers do the trick, Nigel gets fancy on us with Hotronic’s heated foot beds. This is the inner skier hidden in Nigel. Additionally, Nigel doesn’t enjoy looking like a bank robber while riding. Thus, he wears a Buff. Look at how versatile these things are! Honestly, who would have thought you could wear it in the hood, look like a pirate on your Caribbean vacation, or insulate yourself from mother nature in MN. Only the original Buff pictured on the far right could do that!

 

Trent – The versatility of Gore’s Phantom Jacket immediately had Trent sold. It is a superb soft shell, providing amazing warmth and unbeatable protection from the elements. When it’s a touch warm for that outside layer, the sleeves can be removed, protecting your core from the wind as a short sleeve jersey.

 

Brett – I really enjoy Gore’s Power Beanie. The top has a drawstring that can be tightened to serve as a hat or loosened if you want to wear it as a gaiter around your neck. Gore’s Contest Bib is also at the top of my list. The soft shell design and Windstopper fabric provide unrestricted warmth for cycling and skiing!

 

Please stop into the store to check out our full Fall and Winter clothing selection or for further guidance. This article only highlights a few select items and we have much more to choose from in store!

Nigel Kinney’s $100 Black Death Build

So you may think that all of us that work here at the shop are ridiculously spoiled and ride around on $10,000 time trial machines, but you would be DEAD WRONG!   Only some of us do.  Some of our summer employees are penny pinching college students that are high on talent but low on funds.

So to inspire all you fellow penny pincher’s out there I bring you:
Nigel Kinney’s $100 Gear West ‘Black Death Build’.
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Nigel is one of our all-star mechanics that comes back to us every summer once school is out.  His main sport is actually Biathlon (skiing & shooting), but he’s gotten into cycling and has some raw talent.  He’s been upgraded to a Cat. 3 cyclist and has actually won some criteriums and road races in the last year, but up until recently has not done any time trials since he didn’t have a dedicated TT bike.   But that all changed when he saw an old Trek Equinox frameset that had been warrantied due to it’s broken front dérailleur braze-on.    Who needs a front derailleur anyway!

This is where it helps to have the mechanical skills to piece together a beast like this, as well as access to a bike shop basement and friends with odds and ends parts. With the frame, miscellaneous used and warrantied parts from the basement, and literally taking things out of the garbage, Nigel put together this bike for $100! I kid you not. And how does it perform you ask? The day he built it up he brought it over to the TNT time trial (our local Tuesday Night 11 mile TT) and he broke out a 25:05… averaging 26.3 mph!

We asked him to describe his build in detail:

Here is the part by part build:
Frame: Old 55cm Trek Equinox with broken front derailleur braze on. Custom painted flat black by yours truly. Free
Fork: Old Felt carbon fork we had sitting in the rafters. Literally. Free
Seatpost: Trek came with frame. Free
Seat: Felt 3.2 saddle heavily used. Free
Headset: Used Black Cane Creek S3. $20
Stem: Used 90mm Syntace. Saved from the aluminum recycling bin. Free
Cockpit: Vision that had been crashed. Free
Shifters: No front Derailleur/shifter. 9spd. rear shifter on friction to work with 10spd. cassette and derailleur. Free
Derailleurs: No Front derailleur. Rear derailleur used SRAM Rival from Cory. $40
Brakes: Used Sram Rival from Cory. $30
Brake Levers: Used tektro levers that had been crashed. Free
Cranks: Used scratched up 170mm FSA Gossamer cranks, rocking only 53T big ring. Free
BB: Heavily used FSA BB with dust seals removed to accomplish near frictionless spinning. Free
Cable and Housing: Odds and ends sitting around. $10
Pedals: Off my road bike. Speeplay Zero stainless axle. Pink, of course. Not included.
Cassette: Road setup. Not included.
Wheelset: Not included in build. I borrow from whomever is nice enough to let me use their deep Zipps or I use my personal 303s.
Total cost of build is around $100. It has served me well for TT’s like TNT. My bank account is thankful of the employee deals from Gear West Bike and Triathlon and Cory in the shop .

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This is a salvaged crashed Vision cockpit that Nigel resuscitated, paired with an antiquated & used 9 speed bar end shifter he found in the basement.

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A takeoff FSA crankset (again, no front dérailleur or small chainring), and custom paint job at home by Nigel, with some sweet stencil work.

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No you’re not Nigel, no you’re not.

Fun with Power

This past weekend I did a 40K time trial (bike race), and for the first time I used a Powertap wheel for the race, allowing me to see and analyze my power during and after the race.     As it often happens, I went out too hard and suffered on the last half of the race, but what I did leave with was some great data for training and racing in the future.   Here’s the stats from the race:
My weight: 195lbs
My bike weight: 19.5 lbs
Race distance: 40K
Average watts: 362
Elevation gain: 0 ft (out and back course)
Average speed: 27.7
Finish time: 53:40

Now, here’s what I can do with all this data using the website http://analyticcycling.com/ForcesPower_Page.html
The first thing I need to do is convert my average speed and weight (of me and my bike) into metric units since that’s the units used for the calculator.
So my bike weight + my weight in kilograms = 97.3… so I’ll throw that in the calculator.  And my average speed was 27.7 = 12.4 m/s, so I’ll type that in…

The calculator starts out with all default values that you can then change as needed.

I can leave Air Density at sea level (the default value) and the coefficient of rolling resistance at asphalt road (default value).    My average cadence was 90 and crank length is 180mm.     The default value for ‘Effective Frontal Area’ is .5 meters squared, which calculates to 339.5 average watts; meaning that if my actual effective frontal area was exactly .5, I would have had to average 339.5 achieve 27.7 mph (12.4m/s).   But I actually know that in order to achieve 27.7 mph average I had to average 362 watts, so clearly my frontal area is more than .5.     So I just start filling in higher values into ‘Effective Frontal Area’ until the calculated average watts equals 362.     The value ended up being .539 meters squared.

This is the calculator with all my info for the time trial.

So now that I know my ‘Effective Frontal Area’ I can figure out what average wattage I need to produce to achieve any time.   So I was curious what sort of wattage I would need to do to win the time trial all out.   The overall winner of the time trial did a 50:40, averaging 29.3 mph or 13.1 meters/second.  I simply type in 13.1 meters/second into the calculator with my other existing info…

Averaging 13.1 m/s with my drag requires a massive 421 watts.

And find out that I need to average 421 watts over the 40K course to average 13.1 (29.3 mph) and finish with the same time as the winner (50:40).   I’ve got some work to do…

The great thing about this is that I basically figured out my drag numbers without going to the wind tunnel.    This means that I can figure the required wattage for any time I want to achieve.

A picture from the end of the TT. My frontal area is .539 meters squared.

So let’s say for instance that I want to see what’s it’s going to take for me to break the course record at the TNT time trial.    The TNT record is 22:57 (28.7 mph or 12.83 m/s).  So typing that into the calculator (assuming I don’t change my position at all… which I won’t), shows that it will require me to average 398.1 watts to get that time.  Hmmm….

My TNT prognostications

Knowing this also really allows me to dial in my training as well.  If I have a wattage goal, I can train my power intervals with much more specificity.  Training at or above my functional threshold is the best way to improve my functional threshold.  So now I know that training with intervals at ~360-400 watts is going to give me the best bang for my training buck.

For the record, I train with a Powertap Elite + powermeter and a Joule 2.0 head.  Check out Kevin and my review of the Joule here http://gearwestbike.com/about/joule-2.0-review-pg444.htm.

The Commuting Battle

KEVIN AND DREW

Our two commuting leaders, Drew and Kevin after a morning commute.

 Back in March of this year, we started a commuting challenge for all of the employees here at the shop.   Not only did we do a “team challenge” of “upstairs” vs. “downstairs” employees (upstairs is killin’ it), we have an unofficial individual challenge as well.   We handicapped the points, so that for instance Hannah’s 25 mile commute is worth 1.5 points, while Kevin’s 5 mile commute is worth .5 points,  my 17 mile commute is worth 1 point, and Drew’s 14 mile commute is worth .75.  Drew is currently leading, with 73 commutes total (his commutes are 14 miles each way), to Kevin’s 72.  (Drew is actually destroying Kevin in points since his commute is worth .75 vs Kevin’s .5).     In total our staff here at GWB&Tri has commuted approximately 6000 miles this year so far, saving about 300 gallons of gas, and 726,300 grams of CO2 (based on EPA estimates).  

It’s actually easier than most people think to commute by bike, although it get’s a little bit more tricky when the weather get’s colder.  But this does not stop our hardcore commuters, and below are some of their tips.

So what are the keys to year-round commuting?    

1.   The right clothing
     Selecting the right commuting clothing can make or break your cold weather riding experience.     New for us this year is the Gore Clothing line which is going over extremely well.    The factors that make Gore and other similar clothing pieces great is there ability to shield you from the wind and cold while wicking away moisture from your body during activity.   Wear non-wicking clothing and you’ll be drenched with sweat, cold and miserable by the end of your ride.   You’ll quickly figure out what cold weather gear works best in certain temperatures.    For instance, you can usually get away with windstopper gloves until about 40 degrees F, below that and you’re going to want a lobster glove or mittens.    Shoe covers are  another absolute must when the temperature get’s below ~50-60F.    Your feet are farthest away from your heart, getting the worst blood circulation, so they’ll get cold quickly without the right gear (and trust me, riding with numb feet is not fun).   Balaclava and/or a headband or bike helmet cover are also key so your ears, face and head don’t freeze.    Last but not least is a baselayer if it’s really cold (ie: below 30F, I use the Craft Pro Zero Extreme Base Layer) in addition to a windblocking  jersey or jacket and windblokcing knickers or tights.  Riding in anything below 25F you’re going to want to cover up nearly all exposed skin. 

2.  The Right Bike
    
We prefer our road bikes as much as possible, since these allow us to get to work as quickly and efficiently as possible (I actually bust out my TT bike in the summer if I’m running late).   In the fall, most of us throw on 25mm or 28 mm Bontrager Hardcase tires and leave them on all winter and spring.  These tires are absolutely bomb-proof against punctures on the crappy roads, and quite stable on crushed limestone trails like the LRT trails.  I have my detachable fenders ready to go in the garage in the case of wet weather.   With the shrinking daylight hours, almost all of us have the NiteRider MiNewt  headlight for our bikes.  In order to truly ride at night, you need a minimum of ~100 lumens, and nothing beats the small size and ease of use of this light.   Kevin also likes to mount one on his helmet as well to get a little more light out front.  You’re also going to want a small red tail light so approaching cars can see you.   

3.  Commuting Pack
    
We’re all lucky in that we usually don’t have a ton to carry to work.  We all try to keep it pretty minimal with jeans, shirt, underwear, socks and shoes and throw it all in a nice backpack with wide shoulder straps in addition to front straps.   I do the backpack instead of a rack/trunk pack system in order to keep my bike light and nimble for normal training rides (I don’t want to have to constantly put on/take off the rack).   Unless you’re carrying more than 15 lbs of gear to work, I think a good backpack is the best way to go.  We have a shower here, otherwise I would use the Fresh Start Body Cleansing 1 use wash cloths. 

So there you have it, the 3 keys to year round cycling.  Now, there are some really hardcore commuters who ride in after it snows on cyclocross or mountain bikes with studded tires, but I would leave that for the people in the commuting points race.